By Robyn Mowatt ·Updated October 2, 2024
What got my gears running amid Paris Fashion Week? How fun the designer seemed to be having when comprising the looks at their respective shows. This hit of energy was spotted on multiple occasions. From Loewe to Chloé and even at Dries Van Noten it was clear that something was in the air. The energy bled out and made way for outfits that weren’t truncated–though the usual suspects went down the runway, design houses took risks that meant they were unafraid to take a departure from what they are largely known for.
A model walks the runway during the Loewe ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2025 fashion show. (Photo by Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Is Loewe wearable? That thought crossed my mind as I saw topsy-turvy patterned hoop dresses with metal attachments within them to create an optical illusion. Jonathan Anderson is a force that often pivots between playful attire to equally expressive pieces. Just as some pieces appeared that didn’t feel easy to wear some felt of-the-moment: feathered graphic tops with the names of artists including Mozart and Bach, resplendent mini dresses, see-through floral print frocks, a knit collared button-up with a flowing detail, and cropped leather jackets. Wholly, the collection was titillating and fitting for Anderson’s tenth anniversary at the Spanish house.
Dries Van Noten’s first presentation without its namesake designer was the opportunity to set the tone for the future of the brand. What ensued was unfussy clothing that was exceptional. A delicate silk V-neck top in a deep brown tone, a striped maroon blazer tucked into a midi skirt in a contrasting brown hue, and a snake print trench coat were standouts. And so was the orchid-inspired coat worn with a matching pencil skirt–there was also a succinct dark green leather jacket with frills at the top that was hard to ignore. The footwear is typically what I am drawn to when I view Dries Van Noten’s ready-to-wear online.
PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 25: A model walks the runway during the Dries Van Noten Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2025 fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week on September 25, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
In this SS25 collection, I spotted a pair of cherry red wedges and a laced pair of snake print heels, both of these options didn’t feel very spring–but that doesn’t matter–they were staples. The tones of green that were utilized throughout this collection were impressive, a highlighter green on a silk-sleeved dress and a richer hue appeared on a mesh wedge heel.
Chloé under its newly appointed creative director Chemena Kamali has a distinct air to it. In the SS25 collection, some pieces feel like nods to the ‘70s which speak to the core of the house–however, there are also modern nods, trending bubble hems, a bodysuit that included capris in tan, another take on the wedge heel, silk dresses, and bloomer shorts in varying hues, sky blue and also back. A see-through lace number arrived and it featured tiny appliqués that felt current.
A model walks the runway during the Chloé womenswear Spring/Summer 2025 show. (Photo by Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images)
The washed-out color palette included baby pink, a cream hue, tan, and a decadent yellow, these tones were ideal and spot-on. In total, this collection was a slam dunk, it was forward-thinking and punchy at the same time. With it, Kamali is proving to us just how cool the modern Chloé woman can be. Dare I say that this collection harkens back to Stella McCartney’s debut collection back when she was appointed creative director?
Eclectic offerings became normalized at Louis Vuitton where tweed numbers went down the runway with off-putting separates. What also went for a spin were elegant blouses worn with bottoms designed with bows at the bottom. Hats that immediately brought back memories of my grandmother’s “Sunday best” felt lustrous when worn with pieces that felt like opposites: mid-length tweed dresses with matching overcoats. Intricately structured mini dresses and a pair of ugly-pretty shoes with distinct pieces of fabric were an integral part of the collection too (they reminded me of a bird’s nest). Eccentricity may have been a guiding principle for Nicolas Ghesquière, the house’s artistic director of women’s or perhaps it was the ambition to dream big.
A model walks the runway during the Louis Vuitton Paris womenswear Spring/Summer 2025 show. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)
Every so often during Fashion Month there are a slew of presentations that exude the resilience of the industry amid reports of lackluster sales and the inability of being able to capture young and impressionable fashion lovers. This Spring/Summer 2025 season in Paris evoked this ideal. Some presentations gave off an effortless energy (Chloé) while others stuck to their guns and opted to lean into what they knew like Dries Van Noten.
TOPICS: Paris fashion week
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